ModaLisboa 2011: Ana Salazar

Ana Salazar, known as the Matriarch of Portuguese fashion, closed Day Two of ModaLisboa's Check Point. Baroque inspired, with a rock'n'roll edge, her "Depurar o Excesso" collection showcased a variety of textured fabrics in a gothic inspired color palette. Religious prints coupled with printed velvet shouted "Salazar style" while other pieces remained more contemporary, ready-to-wear.

Utilizing black, old gold, earth, forest green, purple, bloody red and white, hemlines were short, fabrics textured to create a chunky, punk silouette.

Perhaps the most intriguing, jewelry by Valentim Quaresma, which really made the collection come to life. Brass Baroque crosses adorned the cheeks of passing models, necklaces with a myriad of textures and details hung seductively over the front and back of svelte figures. One particular show stopper included a necklace including an oversized British Coat of Arms, hanging from the back, highlighting the cut of dress as well as the theme of the collection, a great fit for both designer and jeweler.

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Photos: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2011: Salsa

Portugal's Denim dominator, Salsa, showed for the first time at ModaLisboa's Check Point. Their Fall Winter 2010/2011 collection producing edgy, denim wear reminiscent of some of the world's most well-loved kings of casual.

Multi-colored denim dresses were interesting additions to the women's wear with samplings from several of their much-loved lines from Premium Denim to more street-inspired offerings. Men's wear in cropped puffer jackets of midnight blue with an abundance of metal detail are sure to fly off the rack.

The line Urban Emotion was launched among the company's many offerings, inspired by the tales of Oliver Twist. Ochre, black, khaki and peacock blue emanated an orphan-esque style that the cool-kids-club love to flaunt.

A family-owned company, established in 1994, Salsa continues to expand at a rapid rate. From Spain to Asia it won't be long until they have you moving. Most recently, Salsa has become a best seller in Kuwait, Qatar, Oman and the United Arab Emirates.

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

For more photos head to UnitedEditorsatLarge.Blogspot.com

ModaLisboa 2011: Filipe Faisca

Entitled "Nanban," Filipe Faisca's 2011 Winter Collection was among the best of ModaLisboa's Check Point. Flowing silhouettes under the guise of "Female vs. Male; Urban vs. Rural" sashayed down the catwalk - china crepe, muslin and silk velvet creating feminine looks in bold winter-warming colors.

A striking silhouette got the collection off to a bang with, what seemed like fluorescent leggings making a showstopping appearance. Upon closer inspection these leggings where in fact, boot covering, all-in-one, light grey fabric tights created to reflect the light. Not for the faint hearted these are a definite must for the disco diva in us all.

Throughout the collection, multi-layered fabrics added interest to simple cuts with solid colors conversely highlighting intricate designs. Faisca played with stripes on figure hugging forms that tapered to curves (no androgyny here!).

For the confident women, Faisca managed to create wearable power wear for the chic, modern fashionista.

Photos: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

For more photos head to UnitedEditorsatLarge.Blogspot

ModaLisboa 2011: Vitor

Held in Portugal's Museum of Fashion & Design (MuDE), Vitor showed without a doubt, that he is the rising star of ModaLisboa. His collection last season saw him quickly become the media darling with an audience keen to see if he could live up to his reputation as "the next big thing." Thankfully he did and in my opinion, surpassed it.

Deconstructed knits for both men and women, were created to be worn — shown to be innovative. Each piece was distinctly "Vitor" in a well edited show of unique winter wear.

The unassuming Brazilian born designer is definitely one to watch with an evolution each season that will see him continue to climb the fashion ladder.

Photos: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisbao 2011: Miguel Vieira

If you picked up a copy of Zink recently (February 2010) you will already be familiar with Portuguese designer Miguel Vieira. A consumate professional, his collections for both men and women have been a staple here at ModaLisboa. Recently he added furniture design to his enormous catalogue of stylish offerings from bags and shoes, to men's and women's ready-to-wear. Always with a distinctive flair for tailoring and intricate detail, this season was no different.

Creating a distinctive Jackie O flavor, women hit the catwalk in stylish classics, guaranteed to be wardrobe staples. An edge of the modern woman mixed with classic chic produced a cohesive collection that was both commercially viable and creatively intriguing. Ever evolving as a designer, the color palette remained within the classic theme, using black, midnight blue and white. Brocades, muslins, organza, pure wool and cashmere made for some elaborate silouettes - some form fitting others volumous, inspired by Couture.

Each selection of women's wear was closely followed by daper gents in tailored, structured pieces, the Portuguese wonder of masculine chic pervading. Oversized bags and classic shoes accompanied each look, one of the many multi-functional elements of Vieira's designs. As he moves into furniture design, one can only imagine what next season will bring.

Photos: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

For more photos head to UnitedEditorsatLarge.Blogspot.com

ModaLisboa 2011: Katty Xiomara

By far, one of my favorite Portuguese designers, Katty Xiomara's 2011 Winter Collection was a little disappointing. Perhaps it had more to do with the number of pieces shown rather than the creations themselves however, the styles did not seem to evolve in an engaging manner in regards to form, concept or silouette. Saying that, this particularly runway observation, does not detract from the commercial appeal of this collection which remains a highly-wearable, fun, flirty offering that would compliment any figure.

The theme was "To think, to imagine, to day dream, to construct," this was undertaken in a myriad of simplistic style dresses with embellishments that included oversized shoulder lines, ruffled detailing and various neckwear. The lengths remained uniformly mid-thigh, an occasional pair of shorts thrown into the mix. The color palette included celestial blue and grays with highlights of mauve, yellow and toasted almond tones. More definitive styling and a good edit would have helped this collection really sing.

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

For more photos head to UnitedEditorsatLarge.blogspot.com

ModaLisboa 2011: Alves Goncalves

A sophisticated selection of women's wear, Alves Goncalves' Winter 2011 collection rounded off day one of ModaLisboa's Checkpoint. To the soundtrack of Young American, models sporting '60s bobs, sauntered down the catwalk.

Textured fabrics with swirling felts, the silouettes were feminine and flattering. Utilizing an earthy color palette at times, classic black others, there was plenty to adore.

From metalic to see-through fabrics with swirling felt detail, Alves Goncalves lived up to their reputation as a fine manipulators of fabric and design.

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ModaLisboa 2011: Ricardo Preto

Ricardo Preto opened to an upbeat disco soundtrack, the perfect accompaniment to his "Galaxian Souk Bazar" collection. With the aim of creating a "decided, fearless and strong feminine figure," Preto utilized sparkling fabrics in silver and gold with burnt orange, green and red overtones.

Ornate accessories in the form of bejewled sunglasses and height-enhancing feathers topped off a decidely chic, souk style. Creating flowing garments from a myriad of fabrics, jersey to silk marroquin, cashmere to fur, the collection traversed a varitey of styles not always in line with the overall asethetic. A collection that would have done well with a comprehensive edit, it showed moments of delight in a creatively styled show.

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Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa

ModaLisboa 2011: Alexandra Moura

Neutrals were the name of the game as opener Alexandra Moura kicked off Moda Lisboa's Checkpoint, WINTER 2011. One of the country´s up-and-coming designers, Moura sent out a cohesive collection of see-through fabrics and loose fitting winter favorites for both men and women. However, it was perhaps the accessories that garnered the most attention with gold-capped gumboots and to-die-for wedges, oversized leather bags with intricate details and various clutches guaranteed to keep any fashionista happy.

Figure-hugging jumpsuits hit the catwalk first, soon to be followed by loose fitting dresses playing with the concept of multi-textured, fabric layering. High finish cotton, jersey and wool made an appearance alongside cotton/elastin with a resin finish. Opaque at times with feminine silouettes, it was an easy-to-wear women's wear collection. Conservative knee length skirts with contrasting color, underlayed with ruffled petticoats where a highlight.

Leapord fur trim made a recurring appearance as the show continued, culminating in some less-than-memorable slip dresses. Menswear made a fleeting showing, rolled neck sweaters in complimentary color schemes, various black jackets, featuring interesting cuts and zipper features with accessories rounding out Moura's offerings.

Recently selected as one of the most talented future designers for Taschen´s Fashion Now series, it was a great way to start Checkpoint 2011.

For more photos check out UnitedEditorsatLarge.blogspot

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa